Fortune Auto 500 vs 510 Coilovers – What’s the difference?


We often get a lot of questions on Fortune Auto Coilovers, but one especially stands out. People ask if they should get the Fortune Auto 500 Coilovers or the Fortune Auto 510 Coilovers.

The Fortune Auto 500 series are built and valved for a street vehicle, that sees occasional track use. They use a Digressive piston which allows for a stiff low-speed rebound force. That helps give better control of driver inputs such as dive, pitch, and roll. At high-speed the suspension is kept subtle when bumps and irregularities come up in the road.

We recommend the Fortune Auto 510 series for track driven vehicles, with to no little street use, as they have a very harsh ride on the street and you will feel every blemish in the road. The 510 series uses the same architecture as the 500s, with different color anodizing, and the internals of the shock are completely revamped. They use a much more digressive piston (Our CFD Piston) and revised shim stacks which gives much greater low speed rebound force than the 500 series. At high speed, the piston is designed to “blow off” when going over any large imperfections or bumps in the road, such as pot holes or curbing on a track, which helps the car remain stable. The 510 series also includes a dyno graph of all 4 shocks, and Radial Bearing Mounts are standard on McPherson applications

Please contact us for any questions on these coilovers and for pricing.

2018 Nissan GT-R – Is this the R36 Hybrid we’ve been waiting for?


There’s been many talks of the next Nissan GT-R. The current R35 GT-R has been around since 2008 (2009 in the United States), and while Nissan continues to make incremental improvements to the platform each year, the car is getting stale and old. The R35 GT-R used to be the king of the road, and while it still is in many respects, the new competition coming out is getting faster and more capable.

In order for Nissan to compete, it needs to release it’s next generation of the GT-R… the R36. There has been lots of talk and lots of rumor over the power train for the R36 GT-R, but the most important is that it will feature a hybrid power train. Thoughts are the combined output of the ICE (internal combustion engine) and electric motors will be around 700 horsepower, powered through a highly advanced all wheel drive system as in the R35.

We’re expecting the R36 GT-R Premium will be around the $110-120K range, while the Black Edition will be roughly $10K more and the Nismo to be roughly 40-50K more.

The fastest of the R35s is the 2013 and 2014, which do 0-60 in 2.7 seconds. We expect the R36 GT-R to beat this time and once again regain its self as ring leader.

The thing we are most interested in seeing is how the R36 GT-R is going to take to modifications. The R35 is begging to be modified and has so far produced up to 2500 horsepower at the wheels from it’s V6. With simple mods such as a GT-R Exhaust, GT-R Midpipe, tune and supporting mods, you can make 600+whp from just these bolt ons! We hope the new hybrid power train will lend itself to be a highly capable machine, but only time will tell.

From the photo above, you can see the planned 2018 GT-R will share many of the same design traits as the R35, but the R36 GT-R looks to be much sleeker.

Personally, I love it.

BMW M3 E36 vs E46 vs E92 vs F80 – Ultimate Comparison

M3 E36 vs E46 vs E92

We get it all of the time – What’s the best BMW M3 for for track? Should I get an E36 M3? Should I swap an S54 into an E36? Should I get an E46 M3 with the S54? Should I get an E92 M3 with the S65 V8 and available DCT? We feel each car has it’s pros and cons and we decided to lay it all out here to give you as much info as possible so you can make a decision based on what’s right for you. Ultimately, you can’t go wrong with any of these generation M3s!

We know there is an E90 M3, an E30 M3, an F82 M4 and convertible variations, but we decided to leave those out to keep the comparison as focused as possible. We picked the ones that are the most popular track cars to compare.

Comparison overview (Factory Specs)
Off the showroom floor

E36 M3 (96-99) E46 M3 (01-05) E92 M3 (08-13) F80 M3 (15+)
Engine S52 I6 S54 I6 S65 V8 S55 I6 Twin Turbo
Horsepower 240 333 414 425
Torque 240 262 295 406
Weight 3,219 lbs 3,415 lbs 3,649 lbs (DCT) 3,516 lbs (DCT)
HP to Weight 13.41 lb/hp 10.26 lb/hp 8.81 lb/hp 8.27 lb/hp
TQ to Weight 13.41 lb/tq 13.03 lb/hp 12.37 lb/hp 8.66 lb/hp

Comparison overview (Standard Bolt on Modifications)
Here we take the factory cars above and add standard bolt on power mods. (Intake/Exhaust/Headers/Tune)

E36 M3 (96-99) E46 M3 (01-05) E92 M3 (08-13) F80 M3 (15+)
Horsepower 270 375 465 550
Torque 260 285 330 550
Weight 3,219 lbs 3,415 lbs 3,649 lbs (DCT) 3,516 lbs (DCT)
HP to Weight 11.92 lb/hp 9.11 lb/hp 7.85 lb/hp 6.39 lb/hp
TQ to Weight 12.38 lb/tq 11.98 lb/hp 11.05 lb/hp 6.40 lb/hp

Comparison overview (Bolt ons and heavy weight reduction)
Lightweight exhaust, remove rear seats, speakers, interior pieces, etc

E36 M3 (96-99) E46 M3 (01-05) E92 M3 (08-13) F80 M3 (15+)
Horsepower 270 375 465 550
Torque 260 285 330 550
Weight 2,600 lbs 2,850 lbs 3,150 lbs (DCT) 3,250 lbs (DCT)
HP to Weight 9.63 lb/tq 7.60 lb/hp 6.77 lb/hp 5.90 lb/hp
TQ to Weight 10.00 lb/tq 10.00 lb/hp 9.55 lb/hp 5.91 lb/hp

As you can see above, the F80 is a monster when it comes to power to weight ratio, both factory spec as well as with bolt ons and with weight reduction. In order to obtain the weights above, you have to go through some pretty serious weight reduction. The weights are estimated without a driver and are based on our experience with heavily stripped cars. You can get each car a little lighter and most are going to be above these weights, but this will give you a comparison of about where most of the generations currently sit in terms heavy weight reduction.

Comparison overview (Supercharged and Forced Induction)
A clean title, good condition example of each one, picked with the earliest year

E36 M3 (96-99) E46 M3 (01-05) E92 M3 (08-13) F80 M3 (15+)
Horsepower 360 550 625 550
Torque 300 310 420 550
Weight 3,219 lbs 3,415 lbs 3,649 lbs (DCT) 3,516 lbs (DCT)
HP to Weight 8.94 lb/hp 6.20 lb/hp 5.83 lb/hp 6.39 lb/hp
TQ to Weight 10.79 lb/tq 11.02 lb/hp 8.69 lb/hp 6.39 lb/hp

Above is the most horsepower that is currently recommended for each car, with the factory motor, on the track. The F80 can make much more power, but we haven’t seen power levels over about 550 be reliable (yet) on the track. The E92 has a 650 horsepower kit as well, but it requires higher octane, and most customers run the 625 horsepower kits. Each platform is capable of more power, but this is a demonstration of track readiness. In this case, the E92 is the shining star for horsepower to weight. However, any one of the supercharged cars will require modification beyond a standard kit in order to run cool on the track.

Comparison overview (Problem Areas)
General Problem Areas – Most common problems

E36 M3 (96-99) E46 M3 (01-05) E92 M3 (08-13) F80 M3 (15+)
Problem Area Subframe
Shock Towers
Cooling System
Trailing Arm Bushings
Transmission Mounts
Rod Bearings
SMG Pump
Throttle Actuators
Crank Pin
Mileage 180,000 140,000 80,000 5,000

Comparison overview (Cost of engine and transmission replacement)
Forum and eBay prices as of the date of this post

E36 M3 (96-99) E46 M3 (01-05) E92 M3 (08-13) F80 M3 (15+)
Engine $2,750 $4,000 $9,000 $16,000
Transmission $400 $800 $1,800 (DCT)
$2,500 (6MT)
$3,350 (DC)

The E36, being the oldest car here, is going to have the most little problems. Generally, the S52 is pretty stout and once refreshed can be used very reliably as a track car. Commonly, the cooling system is not up to par and there are some oil starvation issues, but both can be fixed relatively easily. We recommend replacing all bushings and as many “easy to access” gaskets as possible to have the most reliable motor. Most customers replace their valve cover gaskets and do a head gasket job as preventative maintenance when they are going to be tracking the car. The manual transmissions are solid. The E36 suffers from the same subframe problems as the E46, but since the E46 is a heavier car it’s more prevalent in the E46.

The E46 arguably has the most small issues of the bunch, but is also a big jump up in moving pieces over the E36. While the S54 is generally a strong motor, the vanos, valve cover gasket, head gasket and other issues pop up frequently. Earlier cars had a rod bearing recall. Subframes are known to crack. We highly recommend having the subframe checked and if uncracked, reinforced before tracking. We also recommend getting full maintenance done on the motor as generally most S54’s have gone over 100,000 miles and probably weren’t babied. SMG has been known to have issues, and the SMG pump is very expensive (over $3,000). Most do a SMG to manual conversion to save on cost and improve reliability.

The E92 has been one of the most reliable M cars yet. There are cases of rod bearing failure and premature rod bearing wear, but for the most part the S65 is very strong. Many people have reported over 140,000 miles, 50+ track days, and not a single problem. Many people also have supercharged high mileage cars and also generally report no problems. While no car is perfect, the S65 has proven to be very reliable.

The F80 is very new still, but aside from some issues with the crank pins, the motor has taken a lot of boost, upgraded turbos, and many other mods and hasn’t broken a sweat. There are a few rare cases of blown motors, but for the most part, which a solid tune, the motors have proven to be very reliable. We will see over time if this holds out.

On the track – The real world

The various generation M3s all share what BMW calls “The Ultimate Driving Machine”. This means BMW builds these cars to not only perform on the track, but also be a comfortable daily driver. They are supposed to do everything well. However, each one does share something unique over the others, especially in modified form that really makes them completely different cars on the track.

The E36 M3 is the lightest of the bunch, has the least amount of computer intervention and is arguably the most “raw” of this bunch. The S50 (found in the 1995) and the S52 (used above, found in the 1996 to 1999), is not the most powerful motor at 240 horsepower. However, for those who want a starter track car, it doesn’t get much better than the E36 M3. Easier to manage on the track with it’s power level, light and nimble, lower cost of consumables and lower entry cost.

Next up is the E46 M3 which makes almost 100 horsepower more than the E36 but doesn’t weigh that much more, making it that much more of a handful on the track but also that much more potent. The S54 is a masterpiece and loves to rev. The E46 suspension offers lots more grip and feedback and the car is arguable the perfect size. The car can be made pretty light and the S54 takes well to modifications, which makes this an awesome track weapon.

The E9X series, E90 and E92 specifically, have a glorious 4.0L V8 S65 engine that screams to a 8600 RPM (tuned) redline, has linear power delivery and weighs less than the S54 in the E46. The E92 is heavier, but also has a more advanced suspension setup and as seen in this video is the only BMW M3 to go under 7 seconds on the Nurburgring with a stock motor at this time. This is Porsche 918 Nurburgring territory! While the heaviest M3, it is also one of the most capable.

The F8X series introduces the first turbocharged M3. This changes the dynamic of the M3 line up due to the turbo engine power delivery. No longer is there the all motor linear power build which many claim helps to propel the older generations with more confidence and grip around corners. The F80 and F82 make significant amounts of horsepower and torque over the other models, and with proper cooling have no problem putting the power down lap after lap. However, the suspension continues to improve, and users are looking to add wider and wider tires to gain more traction. While the E9X still holds lap records that the F8X has yet to beat, we feel confident that as tuners and racers dive deeper into this new platform, the F8X chassis will be the track champ.

Opinions and thoughts from owners

E36Racer From my experience with the E36 chassis, replacing the headgasket is a must. I see it is listed as a recommendation; however, for some reason if you take a S50/52 that has only been driven on the street and then use it as a track only car the headgasket will fail. But, if you change it before ‘track only’ duty, it will last forever. I’ve always done ARP studs at the same time. So far, 5 years and approx. 20k track miles and no issues. Motor had 42k miles when put into the car and can do a 15 hour endurance race and not even burn a drop of oil. Also, one key trick to an S52 is to install an S54 oil pump and pan and you can forget about any oil starvation issues. Plus it all bolts right on…

ec_E92 For the E36 issues to address, I’d add the oil pump nut (weld, safety wire, or go with Achilles Motorsports oil pump)

admranger The big change in suspension bits, especially in the rear, of the E9xM3’s on makes a substantial difference in my opinion. I raced an E36M3, have driven a ton of track miles in an E46M3 (including multiple days on the ‘ring), and now have enough experience in the E90M3 to know the E90M3 is more fun and easier to drive fast even though it’s heavier. Haven’t driven an F80 on track but have sat in the right seat while TC Kline took me around Laguna. F80 is stupid fast. Ridiculous really.

Mike B The e36 is probably the best driving experience of the bunch. I have driven all pretty extensively and next to the e36 the f80 is the only one better in my opinion. A euro s50 motor swap on a e36 really ups the game pushing it up to 322 out of the box in a very light car. The us spec cars should of had the euro s50. There are quite a few running around. Euro s50 motors are relatively affordable as well. S52’s respond awesome to cam swaps too and really wake the s52 up.

I love the the s54 in the e46. The platform works too. I’ve always disliked the feel of the the drive train. I don’t know if it is the m diff in it or the way the clutch engages or what. But the car feels fragile for some reason. I know it’s not but it doesn’t instill the same confidence the e36 does. I don’t maybe it’s just me.

The e90 is fun and sounds awesome. But it is also my least favorite if the bunch. I don’t really have a great reason why other then feel. To me it doesn’t feel like a M3. Once again it’s a personal preference thing. The f80 in my opinion has rectified that. The f80 is a absolute hoot. I think most of that is all the extra turbo torque.

At the end of the day they are awesome choices and you basically can’t go wrong with any of them!

David M I’ve driven Lots of sports cars and I still think the E36 was the most balanced and fun to drive with it can crush even newer cars that are supposed to easily!
Obviously not blindingly fast but more than fast enough for most!

cherry-M3 Summed it up perfectly. The e9x has a superior suspension to the e46 and 36, allowing it to feel like it carries its weight better. The confidence it gives you going into a turn is incredible. On the ring I’m sure the the e9x really shines, compared to slower more technical tracks where you definitely feel the weight. Nonetheless its the most capable out of all the generations (save for the f80 as I have no track experience in one just yet).

How about a video?

CarThrottle did a nice comparison of these generation M3s. Check out this video:

What did we miss?

There are so many differences between the various generations of M3 that it would be near impossible to capture them all in an easy to read post. However, we realize we didn’t capture everything important here, so we’re looking for your help to make this as complete as possible. We look forward to your feedback in the comments!

Review: AEM Cold Air Intake for Honda CRV 2015 and 2016 – AEM 21-790C

Hey guys, welcome to another Redline360 review video.

Today we’re going to review the AEM Cold Air Intake for the 2015 and 2016 Honda CRV, part number AEM 21-790C.

This intake is a direct bolt on, can be installed with standard hand tools, and requires no additional parts or accessories for install. This air intake system replaces your CRV’s restrictive factory air filter and air intake housing and adds 10 horsepower at 5700 RPM on an otherwise stock CRV. It also improves throttle response and adds a nice throaty engine sound under acceleration.

This intake is tuned by AEM to work with your factory fuel system to ensure that while it does add horsepower, it stays within the safety of your factory tune to give you peace-of-mind reliable performance. This air intake system was developed to accommodate the engine’s factory emissions control devices including the mass airflow sensor and PCV line. The tapered cylinder shaped AEM Dryflow air filter is made from an oil-free, synthetic filter media that can be used for up to 100,000 miles before cleaning is needed (depending on driving conditions).

At the time of filming this video, this intake is not smog legal or legal for sale in California, but AEM is working on getting this CARB certified. Check our site for an update on this status.

Hope you enjoyed this video. Let us know if you have any questions on this part, and come check out this part by clicking here: AEM Cold Air Intake Honda CRV 21-790C

BC Racing Coilovers Review at Redline360

Hey guys, Jon here with Redline360

Today we’re going to review one of our favorite coilovers on the market, BC Racing Coilovers. Not only do we think these coilovers are great from our customer’s own reviews and feedback, but we have them on our own 2012 E92 BMW M3 and we think they are perfect for the street and just awesome on the track.

BC Racing coilovers are 30 way dampening adjustable with simple clicks of the adjustment knob. All the way soft gives you a ride that we think is softer than stock, and all the way firm gives you a track-only, ultra stiff ride. Adjust between front and rear to get you the exact balance that you need. If you are unsure of how to set yours, just send us an email and we can offer suggestions. While other coilovers give you large range of adjustments as well, these coilovers actually make a difference with each click that you can feel.

Many applications also include front camber plates. To check if your specific application includes them, just look at our site at The nice thing about the included camber plates is you can adjust your front camber without having to purchase a separate camber kit which can be $200 to $300 alone.

BC Racing coilovers give you the ability to set your own ride height. Generally even at the highest setting, there is about a one inch drop. At the lowest setting, it’s about a three inch drop. Some applications are available with extreme drop that gives you about an extra inch in adjustability, to really slam the car. For most extreme drop kits, BC Racing also provides special shocks that can handle the added drop.

You can’t go wrong with BC Racing coilovers. Great price, awesome quality, craftsmanship and performance, and a company that stands behind their product.

We are an authorized BC Racing dealer, so when you purchase your coilovers from us, BC Racing will honor their warranty and support. Check our website for a full application list and email us with any questions, we’re here to help.

See you on the track!

Gertrude The Project Car – 1992 Lexus SC300


I want to start this off by saying thank you to Redline360 for giving me a chance to do this and being such awesome people towards me. So I’ll give you a little info on my car and what I want done to it eventually. It is a 1992 Lexus SC300 which is Lexus’ first production sports car (alongside the SC400 which had the 1UZ-FE and about 25ish more ponies). This car really is interesting because it is really a copy of the Supra MKIV just with a different skin and a different upper end on the motor, aluminum heads, and different intake setup which makes this a 2JZ-GE instead of a 2JZ-GTE. The SC series was more of a market tester for Lexus to see what people would want so they threw every bit of technology and knowledge they had (except for a turbo sadly) into it but had to cut back on unnecessary things due to price because it MSRP’d for around $40,000 for the base model. Since it was so expensive only 33,000 were made from 1992-2000 (about 7,500 in 1992 mine being frame number 1522).

My whole vision for this car is to eventually be able to go to bigger car shows and show it off because it is so rare and any car that comes with a factory 2JZ is cool in my book and most people’s. This spring (hopefully) I will end up doing a huge face lift and repaint the bumpers and get new headlights so it’ll look good on the outside. As for underneath I am just going to spruce up what’s already there and plan on a turbo after I finish college or when I can afford it. Interior needs a little bit of love which isn’t surprising for how old the car is and it’s all leather cause Lexus. The engine has been almost fully gone through other than sensors going bad and a few minor things here and there. All in all it really just needs some work on the aesthetics and stupid nitpicks I have with the car.

So that’s what gets me to this write up’s purpose. I bought some Ksport Kontrol Pro coilovers and let me start out by saying this: quality is bar-none. I was a little hesitant because I haven’t seen anyone with these on their cars on forums and such but I am glad I bought them now. Install was really easy and they bolted right on. I however made a dumb mistake and decided to not follow manufacturer’s directions and raise the ride height up. So I ended up with a 2 door sports car that was almost 12” off the ground. Very goofy to say the least and I didn’t take any pictures because it was terrible and embarrassing or else I would share my mistake with you. They look great and perform just as well. I live in the Ozark Mountains in Northern AR so the roads here are rough and windy and this set up works amazingly. Polyurethane bushings are going on in a few weeks and I expect that to help and be better than the 24 year old bushings I have now. All in all this suspension is amazing and I would love to do business with Redline360 again because I got this set from Arizona in three days on their basic shipping and had zero issues with them and they actually had the lowest price out of everyone I could find.

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Written by Damien S.

Cheap Coilovers – Are they good or bad?


Coilovers have been getting better and better over the years. No longer are the most expensive coilovers necessarily the best. There are coilovers that vary in price, features and specs but which are the best? Many of our customers specifically ask for “cheap coilovers”. They are looking to lower their car, get an adjustable ride and replace their shocks at the same time. They aren’t going to track their car, won’t autocross it and won’t race it on the weekends. They simply want coilovers that don’t cost a lot of money, give their car a lowered stance, and will last a long time.

So can you get cheap coilovers that are good? Our answer is yes. We recently started to carry TruHart Coilovers which have two coilover types. One is their TruHart Basic Coilovers, which are their entry level coilover and the other is their TruHart StreetPlus Coilovers which offer more features.

TruHart Basic Coilovers, the cheapest coilovers that TruHart offers, is height adjustable, generally from about half an inch drop at it’s highest setting to about 3.5″ drop from it’s lowest setting, which is very low. You can’t adjust the stiffness of the shock and it comes with no top hats so you need to reuse the OEM top hats. For the price it can’t be beat. Includes brand new shocks that are made for the springs and our customers have been very pleased with them even though they are considered “cheap coilovers”.

TruHart StreetPlus Coilovers are still considered to be “cheap coilovers” since they are generally under $550, but they offer more features such as the ability to raise or lower the vehicle by using the bottom mount so you don’t lose shock travel, as well as have top mounts. Makes for an easy install since you don’t need to reuse your factory top hats and deal with removing the factory springs from the OEM shocks.

So just because a coilover is inexpensive, doesn’t mean it’s cheap. TruHart is a great example that you can have a budget, entry level coilover for a great price and get a great system that’ll transform how your car handles.

Check out our full line of coilovers for various budgets and needs. If you’re unsure which you need or what the differences are, contact us and we will recommend the right coilover for the right price to meet you needs.

Exhaust Shootout: Catback vs Axleback vs Turboback Exhaust vs Muffler


It’s confusing and we get this question a lot. What’s the difference between a catback exhaust and an axleback exhaust? What’s the difference between a full exhaust and a turboback exhaust? What’s the difference between a muffler and an axleback?

They are all very good questions and instead of telling our customers the same thing over and over, we decided to just create a post where we can clear it up. Below you will see the differences between the various types of exhaust and how they help with their intended purposes.

So what are the differences between the various exhaust components and what does each one mean?

Headers are the exhaust component that attaches to the cylinder head. This is why they are called headers. The headers are designed to scavenge exhaust from the cylinder ports and make the exhaust cycle more efficient. On a car or truck that is naturally aspirated, headers usually attach directly to the catalytic converter.

Downpipes are usually found on cars with a turbo. The downpipe attaches to the o2 housing of the turbo and then connects down to the catalytic converter. There are some cases where the design of the exhaust of a naturally aspirated car has a downpipe as well, but generally it’s for forced induction applications.

Catalytic Converter
A catalytic converter, also known as a “cat”, typically goes between the header and the intermediate pipe or catback exhaust. This is an essential piece of smog equipment that is against the law to remove, modify or alter. A catback exhaust is called a “cat back” because it generally is the full exhaust after the catalytic converter. It’s the exhaust from the cat all the way back to the muffler (and including the muffler).

Test Pipes or Cat Deletes
As the name implies a cat delete is a pipe that deletes the catalytic converter from your exhaust system. They are more commonly known as test pipes as well.

Intermediate Pipe
The intermediate pipe, also known as the mid pipe, is designed to fit between the catalytic converter/cat delete pipe and the muffler section.

Catback Exhaust
The catback exhaust is the most popular upgrade. The catback exhaust replaces all of the exhaust piping from the catalytic converter back to the muffler. It replaces the muffler and tip as well. It’s also commonly referred to as an “exhaust system”.

Axleback Exhaust
Some cars have intermediate pipes or mid pipes that flow pretty good from the factory. So manufactures only release certain sections of the exhaust such as the axleback exhaust. An axleback exhaust generally replaces the muffler, tips and a small section of piping that connects to the intermediate pipes or mid pipe. Consider an axleback exhaust as a muffler section exhaust.

Generally, mufflers are universal and need to be welded on. A muffler shop would cut off your old muffler and weld on a new one.

Ok, so what’s better and what are the differences between these?

So now that you know about the various components of an exhaust system, we’re going to explain to you which we recommend which are better or worse.

Catback vs Axleback
In about 95% of the cases catback vs axleback debates are over power and cost. Which makes more power and is a catback worth it? Well, in just about all cases a catback exhaust will make more power than an axleback exhaust. What you have to decide is if the added cost of a catback is worth the gain in power. Every car and truck has different gains between these systems. In fact, some manufacturers only make axle back systems for your car. If this is the case for you, it could be that the factory system flowed so good that it didn’t seem worth it for the manufacturer to replace all of the piping so instead they released a lower cost exhaust – the axle back. The factory muffler is usually pretty restrictive since it needs to be quiet, so this is usually where most of the power is gained from on a catback vs axleback debate.

Catback vs Turbo Back
In every case, a turbo back exhaust is going to make more power than a catback exhaust but will cost significantly more because you’re replacing the full exhaust system. A catback vs turbo back comparison is usually not a fair one as the turbo back typically replaces the downpipe, catalytic converter and catback, so it’s a much more comprehensive system. Obviously, only turbo cars have the option of a turbo back exhaust.

Catback vs Catless
You can’t really have a catback vs catless exhaust debate as these are complimentary pieces. If you have a catback exhaust you can add remove the catalytic converter and replace it with a test pipe or cat delete so your system becomes catless. Keep in mind, this is for off road use only. So if you are deciding on catback vs catless you can’t do this, you either have a catback exhaust with a catalytic converter or a catback exhaust with a cat delete.

Midpipe vs Downpipe
Similar to the above, you can’t have a debate on midpipe vs downpipe as they are in different locations of the exhaust. A downpipe is in the front of the exhaust system and a mid pipe (or intermediate pipe) is toward the end, between the catalytic converter and axleback or muffler section.

In conclusion
So in conclusion, the exhaust is made up of many different components and it really depends on what you’re looking for out of your car that will ultimately decide the way you go with your exhaust system.

If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask below! Hope this was informative!

TEIN Coilovers and TEIN Springs: How to spot the real/fake counterfeit products


Often times, a manufacturer spends many hours and research dollars to create a product that offers something unique only to be copied in an overseas factory that tries to pass off a fake and copied product as genuine. Recently, this has been happening often with TEIN Suspension which makes the very popular TEIN Lowering Springs and TEIN Coilovers.

Here at Redline360, we sell only genuine and authentic TEIN Suspension products, but others aren’t always as honest. However, due to our customers hearing about fake TEIN springs and fake TEIN Coilovers, we have decided to create this post to showcase how some of these look real to the untrained eye but are actually very different.


In the image above, you can see the two differences between the real TEIN Coilovers and the fake TEIN Coilovers. Some of the most important parts of the coilover system are fake. You can see the product label is obviously fake as the product name here happens to be “TEINS” plural instead of “TEIN” and doesn’t have the correct font or logo. Also, the Spring Seat & Lock as well as bracket lock are not the same design as stock which is designed to correctly lock in place to prevent the spring from adjusting. The adjustment knob (dial) is also different and has a much cheaper design which doesn’t follow with TEIN’s quality adjustment.

In addition, TEIN adds a 2 layer anti-rust powder coat treatment that prevents rusting. The cheaper counterfeit coilovers are simply painted and do not offer the same protection.


Above you can see the fake and counterfeit springs. You can tell right away which is real or fake by the way they use a different font to describe the type of spring it is.


Above, you can see the horrible job they did to put the logo on the spring. Its obviously a fake.


Above, you can see the real logo and how it’s better integrated into the spring. If they can’t take the time to put a logo on a spring, you can only imagine what other corners they cut in the quality and construction!


Above is another obvious giveaway. TEIN stamps each spring with a part number to properly identify it. Their stamping follows the spring in a smooth fashion.


Above you can see how the counterfeit fake spring is stamped in a very careless way.


And last but not least, you can see the real TEIN springs use a label that fits inside of a green outlined box.


Above, you can see that the fake springs have a label that doesn’t fit into the box properly.

Now that we have showed you real vs fake TEIN suspension products, we believe the counterfeit factories are going to update their springs and coilovers to look more real to throw off unsuspecting customers. It’s important to buy your parts from a trusted source such as Redline360 to ensure you are getting the quality products you are paying for.

Shop real TEIN products here: TEIN Lowering Springs and TEIN Coilovers.

We hope this was useful information! Please contact us with any questions.

W211 Mercedes E55 AMG Coilovers Require OEM Lower Control Arms

If you have a 2003, 2004, 2005 or 2006 Mercedes E55 AMG chassis code W211 with Airmatic suspension, you can’t simply bolt on coilovers like BC Racing without any modification. Because the Airmatic models do not have a spring seat in the rear lower control arms, the LCAs must be replaced with an OEM Mercedes control arm made for steel spring suspension. These parts are available at reasonable cost from salvage yards or dealers.

Non airmatic rear lower control arm needed to install BC Coilovers on a W211:

This type rear lower control arm must be replaced with OEM non-airmatic type to install BC Coilovers on W211:

To see the coilovers, click here: BC Racing Coilovers Mercedes E55 AMG [BR Type] (2003-2006) J-05