When our customers know they want to upgrade their suspension, one of the first things they think about is what type of suspension they are going to get, and the second question is if it will go as low as they want. There's always the debate of going with coilovers or lowering springs, but with lowering springs you generally know how low you will drop your car. Lowering springs always come with a amount of lowering front and rear, so you know what to expect.
However, with coilovers, it's not always so clear. You know that coilovers are adjustable, but generally there's confusion over just how low it'll go and some customers also ask if they can keep their car at stock height. Both are very good questions. We'll answer the most common questions below. If we don't cover something you're curious about, please let us know in the comments.
How low can coilovers go?
Unfortunately there's no definitive answer here. Every brand and type of coilover is going to have different ranges of lowering. For example, some coilovers such as the BC Racing BR Type Coilovers come with the option of "Extreme Low" for certain applications where you can get a max drop of about an extra inch. Usually drops this much will allow you to tuck the tires in the fender pretty deep.
In most cases, expect coilovers to lower your vehicle from 0.5" and go as low as 3.5".
Can I add coilovers but keep my car at stock height?
In almost all cases the answer to this is no. By default, even at the highest setting, most coilovers still lower your vehicle by at least half an inch.
If I drop my car as low as the coilovers go, will I have a bouncy or bad ride?
This really depends on the brand of coilover. There's two ways to adjust your system. You can either use a supplied wrench to turn a threaded sleeve ring that compresses the spring, or to unlock a locking ring that allows you to thread the entire shock body. If your coilovers adjust with the shock body, you can slam your car to the max, and your ride quality won't change much (except for the suspension dynamics adjusting). The reason for this is because you aren't losing shock travel and your springs aren't compressed, so much of the ride quality remains even if you dropped your car as low as you can go. If you have coilovers that adjust by compressing the springs, then you will suffer ride quality since you need to literally compress the spring to lower the vehicle. In this case, the lower your coilovers are adjusted, the worse your ride typically becomes.
If I slam the car, will my shocks blow?
The good thing about coilovers is they come with shocks that are designed for the added spring tension and compression. The shocks are made to handle the extra demand. Unlike using lowering springs with aftermarket shocks or stock shocks, the shocks are usually not made to operate with less shock travel and end up failing. Coilovers that adjust with the shock body vs compressing the spring are less demanding on the shock.
Hopefully this has helped to answer some of your questions. If you have a question that we did not answer here, please leave a comment below.
If you're going to the always awesome SEMA show in Las Vegas this year, you'll be one of the first to see the 2014 Honda Civic Si Coupe. The 2014 Si is redesigned a bit from the 2012 and 2013 model and has some minor touches to the exterior that I think is pretty tasteful and looks nice.
We expect the 2014 to have the same 2.4L K Series motor, but will likely have some more horsepower as Honda has been giving hints that there's going to be more performance coming from under the hood.
We can see the new Civic coupe has a redesigned spoiler, new rear lower diffuser, modified rear bumper and slightly different taillights.
We're excited to see the full reveal at SEMA 2013!
The Tesla Model S has certainly stirred up some chat amongst automotive enthusiasts. As arguably, one of the first exciting electric cars, the Tesla shows great promise with the aftermarket crowd. Since the car is so new, there aren't too many Tesla performance parts available, but the aftermarket has taken to upgrading the vehicle's appearance, specifically around wheels.
Here are some of our favorite pictures of Tesla Model S aftermarket wheels:
21" HRE P40SC Tesla Wheels
22" Avante Garde M310 Silver Tesla Wheels
22" Avante Garde M310 Matte Black Tesla Wheels
We think these look awesome! If you have any pics of your Tesla Model S with aftermarket wheels, please share the pictures with us, and we'll feature them here!
When it comes to cars and trucks, it is common for most people to enjoy performance that comes from improved horsepower and torque. Performance components play a significant role, and Magnaflow catalytic converters are the perfect way for you to improve the flow in your exhaust system while protecting the environment. Magnaflow has built a solid reputation among car enthusiasts with its solid track record in reliability and performance with their catalytic converters and exhaust systems. A quality catalytic converter is required for smog as they are designed to stop most pollutants from being released by your vehicle.
A quality catalytic converter is an essential part of decreasing emissions. While you can uninstall your catalytic converter with a cat delete or test pipe, this will result in a significant boost in your car’s power but you will be doing more harm to the environment due to excessive emissions which is also illegal in most states and does not pass smog checks. The catalytic converter delete pipes are only to be used for off road purposes. This is where Magnaflow comes in to play. Magnaflow catalytic converters are 49 State Legal (not in California), and improve exhaust flow, horsepower and torque while still being environmentally friendly. These are excellent for those who are looking to upgrade their exhaust system or simply replace the factory catalytic converter with something less expensive than from the dealer.
Magnaflow manufactures catalytic converters that are direct fit, universal for gas engines, and universal for diesel engines. The direct fit is one of the most popular because it bolts up just like stock, retains the factory oxygen sensor locations, and requires no welding, hacking or fabrication for install.
If you need to replace your catalytic converter due to it failing, you should know of some of the reasons why they fail in the first place. You can simply ignore the problem and get a new converter, but if the problem with your vehicle still exists, it will damage your new converter as well. Some of the most common failure issues are an intake leak, exhaust leak, fuel injector damage, defective front o2 sensor (before the converter), defective MAF (mass air flow sensor/meter), defective coolant temperature sensor (ECT), or defective MAP sensor (manifold absolutely pressure sensor). The converter could also get contaminated with oil from bad piston rings or valve seals, sulfur from using low quality gas or a coolant leak from a bad head gasket or intake manifold gasket.
So why do we recommend Magnaflow? Magnaflow in our opinion is one of the best performance and replacement catalytic converters because they not only perform as well as catalytic converter from your dealer for a fraction of the cost, but they have a generous warranty. If within the warranty time period, the catalytic converter fails, Magnaflow will replace it. They cover both inside and outside warranty, meaning if the material internal to the unit fails or the heat shield or frame fails, they will warranty it.
As always, check with your local, state and federal laws to ensure the catalytic converter you are buying passes all required laws.
Hey everyone! This is Dan with Redline360 and today I'll show you the K&N air filter for the Subaru BRZ and Scion FRS.
This air filter is part number 33-2300 and we have these in stock - check the links below for product details and pricing.
This K&N air filter is a direct replacement for your stock air filter, and simply drops right in. Great upgrade for those who want to keep the factory air box, but replace the stock restrictive air filter with something high flow.
Excellent for those who want an inexpensive upgrade while staying smog legal and don't want to get a short ram or cold air intake.
The filters are washable and reusable so they can last a long time. In fact, a nice thing about these air filters is that they come with a warranty card in the box that gives you all of the warranty information. These have an amazing Million Mile warranty and K&N stands behind it.
Highly recommended and one of the more popular BRZ and FR-S air filters we sell.
Thanks for watching... and don't forget to subscribe to our channel to see our future videos.
I'm Dan and we'll see you next time!
While there are a lot of well built and popular exhaust systems, they don't always meet everyone's needs or give you the satisfaction of building your own. For many die hard automotive enthusiasts, not much compares to the joy you get when you first fire up your car or truck and get to listen to the sound of your own one of a kind exhaust system that you built yourself. We're going to cover some of the various types of do-it-yourself exhaust kits available as well as the true build-from-scratch exhaust systems and show you what you need in order to be able to build your own. Headers can be hand built also, and while it's not as easy, it's not necessarily as hard as you might think. All it takes is some patience and knowing that it won't be perfect the first time, but the beauty is that you will be comfortable enough to modify it until it's just what you're looking for. So for all motor, turbo, nitrous or supercharged setups, we'll cover what you should be looking for and how it's pretty easy to build your own exhaust.
What kind of setup do you have?
Before you begin, you need to decide what you need. Exhausts come in various sizes and setups and the type you need depends on what type of setup you have. For those that have forced induction such as turbo or superchargers, in most cases you will need a larger exhaust than those who are all motor or nitrous. Your local and state laws also dictate what type of exhaust you can have as some don't allow you to do any modifications to the exhaust at all. Check your laws before you attempt any modifications. If your car is still in the early stages, we generally recommend to get the exhaust you need when your car has the setup you are looking for. Otherwise, in most cases, you will need to get a different exhaust later which adds to cost.
What kind of exhaust do I need for a turbo setup?
A turbocharger is powered by exhaust gasses so generally the more exhaust you can push through your turbine the more efficient your engine will be and the more power you will make. A 3" exhaust is generally recommended, and most cards and trucks have enough room to fit 3" piping. If you are running a turbo on a car or truck that will be producing over 600 horsepower, we would recommend a 3.5" exhaust or more, depending on your needs. Some big diesel trucks have 4" exhausts due to the amount of exhaust flow required.
I have a supercharger, what exhaust do I need to build?
Generally a supercharger requires about the same exhaust piping as a turbo setup. Many times a supercharger setup doesn't produce as much boost as a turbocharger, so the exhaust piping might be a bit smaller, but we still wouldn't recommend it. Go with the bigger exhaust, so as you upgrade your pulley for more boost, or get other modifications, you won't have a limiter with your exhaust.
Nitrous or all motor setups
A lot of people with all motor setups often complain that a larger exhaust reduces back-pressure and that's not a good thing. We hear the same thing from customers with nitrous setups, because they drive around all motor, and only have the extra power once they activate and use the nitrous. The fact is, back-pressure is not good for top end power production, so the bigger exhaust the better. Since an all motor setup usually doesn't flow as much as a forced induction setup, the exhaust generally doesn't have to be as large, and is dictated by the displacement and horsepower/torque of the engine. With a larger exhaust on an all motor setup, the power band is shifted, so power comes on later, but has higher peak, so it makes more power, but "feels" less powerful down low which leads people to not be happy with a larger exhaust. This is sacrifice some people must have when building a top end setup. Some customers get around this by having a smaller exhaust, but put a cut out right before the catalytic converter so they can open it up when they need it for racing.
So how can I build my own exhaust?
Here is what you would need in order to build your own exhaust:
- Muffler - We recommend a straight through muffler for those who can handle the extra noise. These flow the best. A chambered muffler doesn't have the same flow characteristics, and has more back-pressure, but isn't as loud and generally sounds deeper.
- Piping - We strongly recommend stainless steel piping in areas that are prone to rust. Stainless steel won't rust and is stronger but more expensive than aluminized metal. Aluminized metal is less expensive and ok for those who live in areas where roads do not have salt and is generally a drier area.
- Exhaust clamps - For those of you who are going to build a slip fit exhaust (when one end of the exhaust literally slips into the other end instead of welding), you will need exhaust clamps to seal the exhaust. Make sure the clamps you purchase will fit around your piping.
- Exhaust flanges - If you are going to put flanges on your exhaust, and will not be building a slip fit, then you will need to buy exhaust flanges. We recommend thicker flanges so they do not warp under extreme heat. Keep in mind that you will need two flanges for each connection, one for each side of the pipes you are connecting.
- Exhaust gaskets - You need to get new exhaust gaskets to put between your flanges to keep the exhaust from leaking. We recommend steel rimmed gaskets for the best seal.
- Exhaust hangers - You'll need to get new exhaust hangers to be able to hang your exhaust once complete.
- Exhaust Tips - Depending on your setup and what type of exhaust you are building, sometimes you don't need tips, but generally you would need to get exhaust tips to finish off your exhaust.
- Welder - You need a good mig or tig welder (tig produces nicer welds but requires more skill).
I'm ready to build my exhaust, how do I do it?
Since every car and truck is different it's impossible to give perfect directions for each vehicle, so we will be general and assume that if you are attempting to build your own exhaust, you have above average mechanical skill and should be able to figure out most of it on your own. How we start is by trying to copy the general design of the stock exhaust system.
- How much piping do I need? - Measure your stock exhaust to find about how much straight piping you need. Add a foot or two for good measure. Determine how many bends you need, and what degree they are. Keep in mind that your new piping will be bigger, so make sure you take into account clearance issues with a bigger exhaust.
- How many hangers do I need? - You at least need to get the same numbers of hangers as your stock exhaust. Depending on the weight of the new system, you might need to add in an extra hanger for support.
Once you have the basic piping together, use a transmission jack or an exhaust jack to try and plan out how the exhaust is going to sit. Add a few small yet supportive spot welds so you can make sure everything fits, but still be able to break the welding to make adjustments.
Leave enough room for your muffler. Measure the length of the muffler, and make sure you have enough room to clear your bumper and still have room for an exhaust tip. If your muffler has a built in tip, then make sure the piping keeps your muffler at the right location so the tip doesn't stick out too far or not go out far enough.
We are going to cover building your own headers in a different write up, but it's generally more difficult than a standard exhaust system. You would need a header flange, properly bent piping, and an exhaust collector.
This write up covers a catback exhaust (exhaust from the catalytic converter back to the muffler), or an axle back exhaust (an exhaust from around the rear axle/wheels to the muffler) and not a full exhaust. For a full exhaust, you would also need to purchase a new catalytic converter, which most people opt for the high flow catalytic converts to match their new exhaust. We recommend the same size catalytic converter as the rest of your piping. For turbo setups, you would also need a high flow downpipe. The downpipe connects to either the turbo exhaust turbine or to the turbo o2 housing.
Hopefully this guide gives you some insight into how to build your own exhaust system. It's a pretty basic instruction set, but with so many different exhaust setups and requirements, we figured the write up would have to be.
We'd love to see your setups! Send us some of your custom exhaust builds and we'd love to feature them here. We also welcome all comments and suggestions on what tips would help someone build a home made exhaust.
The new 2013 Lexus GS350 has been extremely popular with automotive enthusiasts who love the awesome styling, luxury ride, and excellent performance. However, not everyone is happy with stock, and one of those people is Dave. Dave was looking to lower his GS350, and wanted the Tanabe lowering springs.
Click here for more info on this product: Tanabe NF210 Lowering Springs Lexus GS350 Part # TNF170
These springs were just what I was looking for. The height is perfect. The ride is smooth and handling is great! Excellent product!
These lowering springs are a direct replacement for your stock springs and require no additional parts for installation.
A strut tower bar, also known as a strut brace or strut tower brace, is a pretty common upgrade on many cars and many cars come with one from the factory. However, the question keeps coming up of what a strut bar actually does, is it worth it, and how does it work? Strut bars are designed to tie the tops of your struts together, to reduce chassis flex which improves handling, acceleration and braking. Strut bars are available in many different configurations - front upper, front lower, rear upper and rear lower.
Jason over at EngineeringExplained created an excellent in depth video to show how a strut bar really works, and how it does the most for vehicles with a MacPherson strut suspension setup.
So how fast can a Tesla Model S accelerate from a dead stop to 133 mph, it's top speed? 26 seconds. Check out the video above.
Not only does it reach top speed with almost no noise, but it can out accelerate a BMW M5 while doing it. Very impressive for an all electric car that a few years ago people would have said couldn't be a fun car to drive.
Much praise for Tesla and their true performance all electric Tesla S.
GReddy has released their highly anticipated T518Z Tuner Turbo Kit for the 2013+ Scion FR-S and Subaru BRZ! The turbo kits should be shipping now and in stock by the first week in June!
With extensive testing both in Japan and the USA, this turbo kit was designed to enhance the overall performance for daily drivers and weekend racers. An ideal turbo sizing maintains the vehicles balanced driver feel, by maintaining good low-end response with the factory engine components. But the most noticeable improvements can be noticed on the factory power-band's dip in mid-range torque and at high RPM top-end power.
GReddy has been producing some of the most popular turbo kits for many late model imports such as Honda, Toyota, Mitsubishi and Mazda. GReddy is known for their high quality turbo kits that offer excellent fitment, and good streetability and reliability with out of the box performance. Many standard turbo kits require that you provide your own engine management, but the GReddy kit comes with it, and gives you a very good base map that will allow you to enjoy the car right away. We still recommend a professional tune to make sure you get the most from your new turbo kit.
GReddy dyno test showed a +93.5 whp and +68.7 ft/lbs increase at 7 psi on a stock 2013 Scion FR-S with factory injectors and fuel pump, just adding a *GReddy-tuned EcuTek ecu, and a *GReddy Evo3 70mm exhaust (*not Included). But even more importantly, the mid-range torque from 3150-4750 RPM's are significantly improved over the stock torque curve.
The Tuner Turbo Kit includes: a top-mounted GReddy T518Z 10cm2 actuator turbo on an equal length 4-1 SUS header-type exhaust manifold with dual flex joints, SUS downpipe and cat-delete, free- flow Airinx AY-SB intake, short-routing intercooler piping, Type-40E front-mounted intercooler with cast end-tanks and all the necessary brackets, heat-shields, hoses, clamps, and gaskets.
GReddy P/N: 11510094
for (ZN6) 4U-GSE / (ZC6) FA20
Tuner Turbo Kit ( additional fuel management not included)
GReddy T518Z -10cm2 actuator turbo (top-mounted)
4-1 SUS Exhaust Manifold with dual flex-pipes (header type)
Large SUS downpipe & front pipe (removes catlyic-conveters)
free-flow Airinx AY-SM air intake
aluminum intercooler piping (direct routing)
Type 40E Intercooler with end-tanks
includes necessary gaskets, heat shields, couplings, hose, mounting